M/V HAWKEYE II                                A TRIP OF A LIFETIME

M/V HAWKEYE II

TRIP 2 LOGS

DUBUQUE, IA TO THE BAHAMAS AND TO COZUMEL, MEXICO

October 18, 1985
Grand Mariner Marina, Dog River
Mobile, Alabama
Trip Log: 8,988 Miles


     Frost on the pumpkin and ice on the foredeck--it was time to go.  We arrived in Dubuque, Iowa on July 16th and, after spending ten delightful weeks in the area, we are now headed south.   Visited old friends and new, saw family again and shared some memorable cruises—a summer we'll always remember. 

     Just six weeks ago, we left Dubuque to continue our trip up the Mississippi to the end of the navigable waters. Making up the crew for this adventure were Dr. Earl Bickel and his wife, Sue, of Cedar Rapids, Iowa, and John Bickel and his wife, Ruth. Such interesting and helpful folks to have aboard: Dr. Earl with his good wit and ready remedies; Sue as gourmet chef; and both experienced river boaters. John and Ruth, with their many years on the river, were our guides for this trip. 

     Our first stop was McGregor, Iowa. This quaint river town is a colorful reminder of the busy past.    It is, also, the home town of John and Ruth.    Their beautiful stone home was a famous bordello in the Gay 90's. John Bickel is a river historian who's lineage goes back several generations in this area. He and Ruth have restored their home beautifully with pictures and artifacts of river lore.    The second day we stopped at La Crosse, Wisconsin, a very lovely city.

     Our next stop was Winona, Minnesota. Winona is the headquarters of The Standard Lumber Company. This company was one of my first and very best customers in the metal building business thirty years ago. The grass was very short in those days. I might have been paddling a canoe up the river if it hadn't been for their orders and prompt payments.

     Leaving Winona at 8:00 A.M. August 29th, we passed through beautiful Lake Pippin and stopped for the night at Red Wing, Minnesota. There we tied up to the City Wall right behind the "Viking Explorer," skippered by Captain Joey, a lovely lady. The "Viking Explorer" has a capacity of 30 passengers and were they having fun! What a way to see the river.

     The next day, leaving the now narrowing Mississippi, we turned into the St. Croix River. Stillwater, Minnesota was our final destination and the end of the navigable waterway. We arrived there on Saturday afternoon, August 31st. A beautiful trip with good friends and such magnificent scenery. We spent four interesting days visiting the Twin Cities area. One rainy afternoon we even took a voyage in a shallow draft stern wheeler up the river to Taylor Falls. What a sailor won't do on his day off.

     Well, our trip of a lifetime was half over! We were at the upper end of the river. From the Gulf of Mexico we had traveled up the Mobile River, Black Warrior, Tombigbee, Yellow River, Tennessee, Ohio, Mississippi and, finally, the St. Croix. One thousand five hundred and forty-seven miles and thirty-eight river locks, logs, rocks, wing dams, sand bars and some river barge tows 160' wide and 1200' long! And we had to go all the way back down! Suddenly that feeling-­We're a long way from home! As a matter of fact, about half way up river we had to have "CA." painted below our Newport Beach home port because most people thought we were from Newport Beach, Louisiana. Now dock watchers get a puzzled look and ask "How did you get her here?" 

     We started our trip back down the river on September 4th. It was a cold, rainy day and the trees along the river were beginning to turn color, a sure sign of fall. Our speed down river picked up nearly 50%, so the miles went by quickly. In three days we were back in Dubuque.

     The last two weeks in Dubuque went by rapidly. A few more evening river cruises and dinners at Ms. Pats--what a great place to take friends--end their Carmel Raisin Pie is so good! September 21st was River Fest Day and Boat Parade. It was also one day before Gary's 40th birthday, so we joined the Parade and celebrated. We won the award for having the most fun.


     Next day the "Mississippi River Queen" tied to the bank next to us. We met her Captain, Charlie Richie, who invited us aboard where we met Capt. and Mrs. Folley and others of the crew. This steam stern wheeler has a 380 passenger capacity and would, also, be a great way to see the rivers.


     For the return trip down river from Dubuque, a new crew would be required. From earlier sailing days, I was able to draw on my good friends, Scott and Gloria Abrams. Scott had several months' vacation coming from his job as Sea Captain. So, again, what do sailors do on their days off--they agreed to come and help! Through references from friends, I was able to get Herb Hale from Florida to serve as First Mate. A few cold days in Iowa and Herb was ready to head south. My son, Gary, was able to loin us for a portion of this trip.


     We departed Dubuque Marina on the morning of September 27th. Traveling only in daylight hours, we made our over-night stops in Davenport and Keokuk, Iowa; Rockport, Illinois; Portage Des Sioux and Kimmswick, Missouri. We stopped four days in Portage Des Sioux, rented a car and visited St. Charles and St. Louis. St. Charles has done a great restoration job in an area along the river. We spent some time in the shops and ate at two of the lovely restaurants.


     While there, the Missouri River, which joins the Mississippi at St. Charles, went on a rampage and raised 6' in one day. Logs and debris were now dumping into the Mississippi which would make our progress somewhat hazardous. 


     Had a great visit with one of my friends and former business associates, Harlan Eckhardt. Middle son, Lance, and his girl friend, Doris, joined us for a day down the river. It was great to get together. Gloria's sister and her husband, Doloros and Ed, joined us at Kimmswick. They spent a day with us and got off at Cape Girardeau.


     We left the Mississippi River at Cairo, Illinois and headed up the big Ohio River, turning into the Tennessee River at Paducah, Kentucky. Clark Creek looked like a good place to anchor for the night so we called the nearby marina. The bar maid answered and she was sure we could come up the Creek. I told her we drew 6 feet and she must have thought we wanted her to draw six beers. She said OK--we came on in and hit a little mud, but had a good night anyway, with music blaring from the Bar of Clark Creek Marina.


     The Tennessee River was so very beautiful with colorful trees mixed in with the green southern pine. We saw wild turkeys on the river banks and a large buck deer swimming across the river. He quickly changed his direction when he became aware of our approach. One night we anchored off the bank; had a great dinner, watched "The Right Stuff" on Video Tape; listened to the hoot owls and had a good night's sleep.


     After Pickwick Lock and Dam we turned into the Green Water Marina for a two-day rest. Had dinner with friends we had met on the way up. It is a lovely spot and we would have liked to stay longer, but the Tenn-Tom Waterway beckoned.


      Friday, October 11th, we departed Pickwick Lake and turned into the Yellow River. This was the start of the famous 240 mile Tenn-Tom Waterway. From there on it was all down-hill! We left the Tenn-Tom at Demopolis, Mississippi and turned into the Black Warrior River. Another 220 miles and two days later we arrived back at sea level in Dog River, Mobile, Alabama. Three thousand one hundred miles of river and the "Hawkeye" came through without a scratch--a little brown river stain on her bow, but that will wash off. Now we are making her ready for the high seas again--also ourselves.


I'LL ALWAYS LOVE RIVERS!


November 7, 1985
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Trip Log: 9,762 Miles


     We had a very enjoyable 5-day stay at the Grand Mariner Marina, Dog River, Mobile Bay, Alabama. The Carsons, Capt. Ed, Louise and daughter, Jean, who own and operate Grand Marina are great hosts.


     It was the time to do a few maintenance items and prepare ourselves and the boat for the sea again. In four months of River Cruising we had become a little lax about leaving items laying loose. The Gulf of Mexico is known for its short steep seas that can come up quickly. We battened down and left the calm of Mobile Bay on Sunday, October 20th. As we left the breakwater we knew we were at sea; our old friends, the dolphins, were there to greet us. They did their magnificent dance before the bow and looked up at us with their friendly eyes. In my years at sea these beautiful creatures never cease to amaze me. They have followed us for hundreds of miles and they have warned us of danger.

     Our destination was Longboat Key, Sarasota Bay, Florida.  Crossing the Gulf would take us forty-six hours. We established watches of three hours on and six hours off between Scott Abrams, Herb Hale and myself. It was uneventful 'till 2:30 A.M. the second morning, when the starboard engine warning bell sounded and the red overheat light flashed on. We shut down the engine and found that a drive pulley had failed on the raw water coolant pump.  Continuing at reduced speed on one engine, Herb and I went to work on the problem while Scott took over the steering watch.  After one hour in the 120 degree engine room we had the pump replaced and the engine running again. One side benefit was the effective sauna bath. I am sure we lost 10 lbs. between us and neither would miss it! A cold shower and we were back in business.

     Our landfall was on schedule and we entered Longboat Pass that took us into Sarasota Bay. We docked at the Buccaneer Inn and had a very pleasant two days. We visited our friends, Bob and Sue Horton and their daughter, Sara. Bob was President and Chairman of the Board of Standard Lumber Company, Winona, Minnesota (the company to which I referred in my last letter). It was great to meet again and get caught up on the last 20 years.


     After leaving Longboat Key, we stopped at Boca Grande, then Naples. The Hortons were able to loin us for the crossing from Naples to Marathon.


     Tropical Storm "Juan" had cranked up to a full-on Hurricane and, while located 600 miles to our West, was causing seas, tides and winds to rise. We had departed Mobile Bay, Alabama none too soon as now the area was being struck again. As we left Naples for Marathon small craft warnings were up and the crossing was rough.

     We found the Faro Blanca Marina in Marathon to be excellent and stayed five days. We had a pleasant visit with Lea and Ruth Jones, parents of Steve Jones. They are retired and have a winter home at Colony Beach. We, also, enjoyed meeting again with Dick and Ann Frymire whom we had met in Cozumel, Mexico when they were aboard their "Hawkeye II." We telephoned our friends Verb and Lorene Freeman, but they were cruising on their boat and would not return until sometime in December. We hope to see them then.

     We left Marathon and, because of extremely high tides, were able to go up the normally very shallow inside passage of the Intracoastal Waterway through Everglades National Park. We were lucky enough to see some bald eagles, but did not see any alligators. What beautiful country.

     After a stop at Dinner Key and Miami, we reached Fort Lauderdale, Florida on November 2nd. Eight months and 9,762 miles ... our "Trip of a Lifetime" is half over.

     The Bahamas beckon.......


December 18, 1985
West Palm Beach, Florida
Trip Log: 9837 Miles

     Tomorrow morning we leave for the Bahamas. We have provisioned HAWKEYE with food, fuel end other supplies for the six week out-Island cruise.

     Today I welcomed the new First Mate, Kelly Hulse. Kelly is from Bethel, New York. He recently graduated from Chapman School of Seamanship and comes from a boating family.

     Vince and Carol Arrigo from Newport Beach are also joining us tonight. They are long-time friends and boaters and will be with us for the first ten days of the Out-Island cruise. 

     I wish you and yours a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.


February 4, 1986
Treasure Cay
Great Abaco Islands, Bahamas
Trip Log: 10,080 Miles

     We departed West Palm Beach 10:30 A.M. December 23rd. A cold front had just passed end the strong Northwest winds kicked up steep wave chop against the North bound current of the Gulf Stream. Our entrance to The Bahamas would be made at West End of The Grand Bahamas Island. Joining us for the first week's cruise were Vince and Carol Arrigo from Newport Beach. They are long-time friends and excellent sailors. 


     The 60-mile crossing was made by sunset, and we could see the small harbor entrance markers that outlined the narrow and very shallow channel to the West End Harbor. As we started to turn into the entrance we received a distress call from a sailboat that had run aground nearby. We turned around and carefully made our way toward the stricken vessel. We were within 200 yards when we touched bottom and had to back off. The current and wind were very strong, making it precarious for us to try to go closer. We called for assistance from the nearby Harbor and the sailboat was pulled in shortly after dark.


     Running aground in The Bahamas is not unusual. The water covering the banks for miles around the Islands is very shallow. Great care must be taken to be in the right place at the right time of Tide, or you will find yourself, as they say, "High and Dry.


     We cleared Customs and Immigration that night, had dinner aboard and slept soundly in our safe harbor. We were now in The Bahamas!


     The Bahamas is our nearest offshore neighbor. Her Island of Bimini lies only 50 miles East of Miami and our land fall, West End, was 60 miles East of Palm Beach, Florida. From there, a 600 mile-long beautiful archipelago of 700 Islands, sometime called Cays (and pronounced Keys) lies to the Southeast. Most of these Cays are uninhabited. The major population center is Nassau, on the Island of New Providence.


     All the other Islands are called "The Family Islands." The Bahamas was a British Crown Colony until her independence on July 10, 1973. She has a fascinating history, the foremost being Christopher Columbus who made his first land fall to the New World here in 1492.


     At the end of The American Revolution (1789), several of The Family Islands were settled by Loyalists (Americans who did not favor Independence from Britain.) Many of their descendents still live in the Islands.


     I have made frequent visits here since the early 1950's. She is a beautiful paradise for boaters and flyers. Our month and a-half will be spent visiting The Family Islands of Abaco and the Abaco Cays. 


     We departed West End next morning on the High Tide. We'd had rain squalls most of the night and now it was clearing. After leaving the Harbor, our first objective was to find Indian Pass that would lead us through a very shoal area. With only inches below our keel, Vince's eyes were glued on the depth meter. He kept reading off the tenths of a foot under the keel; he seemed almost spellbound by the unbelievably shallow water. Waiting for the sickening thud, that never came, we headed for the first marker. At least we hoped it was the first marker ... no number or color, just a stick!     Another half mile and another stick ... then, one mile further, a steel pipe. I was glad to see steel, even though it needed paint! A strong current ripped across the shallow channel, making depth color reading difficult. As we rounded the steel post and took up our course for Mangrove Cay, the depth of the water increased and for the next 30 miles we had from 1 to 3 feet below our bottom. Vince settled down! Another 40 miles on the Bank and we were all quite at home in the shallow waters of The Bahamas.


     We anchored in Sale Cay Bay for Christmas Eve dinner. Vince and Carol made their famous spaghetti dinner; we toasted St. Nick, good friends, beautiful days and retired.


     Christmas Day we continued our voyage on the Little Bahama Bank. With careful attention to the chart, using Radar, depth soundings and eye-balling, we picked our way for the last 70 miles. We arrived at Treasure Cay, Great Abaco Islands at 3:30 P. M. Christmas Day and would make this our headquarters for exploring The Abaco Cays. It was a lovely Harbor with a marina, hotel, market, condominiums and cottages, beauty salon, an ice cream parlor and just a short walk to a beautiful 3-mile white-powder sand beach bordering the Atlantic Ocean. What else do you need in paradise?


     Vince and Carol left for home Friday morning, December 27th and my three sons, Gary, Lance, Duane, and granddaughter, Stacey, arrived that afternoon. We had a great week exploring the area, walking the beach and enjoying family.


     The many shades of blue and green water ... warm, clear, buoyant, soothing and invigorating ... the endless powder white sand beaches. 

WE HAVE ARRIVED.


March 11, 1986 
Balboa
Republic of Panama 
Trip Log: 12,013 Miles

      Our seven (7) week stay in the Bahamas Islands was so very enjoyable. Friends from Iowa, Washington and California came to cruise the Family Islands with us, and we all enjoyed the friendly people, beautiful crystal clear water and quaint little villages. In all, we visited some ten islands and returned to some several times. Our special favorites were Treasure Cay, Guana Cay, Man-of-War and Hope Towne.

     The days were spent beach walking, snorkeling, swimming and exploring the islands. Moat evenings we dined ashore, sampling the excellent Island cuisine and enjoying their Rum concoctions. The Goombay Smashes, Guana Grabbers and Bahama Mamas were very smooooth! They set you free! Yes, we hated to leave, but many miles lay ahead.

     We bid farewell to the Friendly Islands and headed back to the USA. The Gulf Stream was roaring North at 5 knots and the opposing Northerly winds kicked up a very rough sea. For a time we had a 45 degree correction angle for drift. We entered Port Everglades at Fort Lauderdale, Florida at 7:00 a.m. February 10th. The Bahia Mar Yacht Basin welcomed us with all the comforts of home ... on-board telephone, cable TV, and good power and water.

     My sister, Marjorie, her husband, Norman, and Bob and Sue from Wisconsin, joined us to complete the "Return Home Crew." The next ten days were very busy with preparations for the three-month journey home. Food, spare parts, fuel, lube oil and other supplies were loaded aboard. Some thirty-seven publications and one hundred and fifty charts were checked to complete the inventory. However, we did find time for dinner with some of our good friends in the area.

     Six thousand miles to go ... our journey was two-thirds over. We had been out of home port over one year and found that preparing for the return voyage was more difficult than for the start. We knew better what was ahead! The sea can be beautiful, smooth and serene, but it can also be rough, nasty and unforgiving! Murphy's Law seems to work quite well at Sea! Machinery we depend on can fail and we must be ready to make repairs---sometimes under very poor conditions. Spending an hour or two in the 120 degree engine room over an 180 degree engine is almost like the Swedish Health Spa ... but something seems to be missing. Perhaps it is the masseuse.


     We departed Fort Lauderdale on February 21st for the Island of Cozumel, Mexico. Cozumel lies off the popular resort of Cancun on the Yucatan Peninsula. She is a lovely Island, and the abundance of sea life makes her a sport fisherman's paradise. She is also one of the favorite stops of the Caribbean Cruise Ships. We would stop for a few days rest, and to take on 2,000 gallons of low-cost Mexican fuel for our next leg to the Panama Canal.


     The most direct route to Cozumel would put us into an unfavorable current, so we played the counter currents by following close to the Florida Keys to Key West, then directly across the Gulf Stream toward the North shore of Cuba. The northern coast of Cuba has a favorable current but, as you know, unfavorable politics. We added a few miles to the 12-mile international territorial rule and paralleled their coast line. By making this little zigzag, we were able to complete the crossing in three days rather than the usual four.

     We arrived at Club de Nautico in the early morning and were assigned a stern-tie dock. We waited all day for Custom Agent, Immigration Officials and The Port Captain to check us in. They came that evening and we were finally legal to go ashore. Early next morning three (3) Costa Rican Coast Guard Boats, brand-spanking-new from a boat works in Louisiana, pulled into the fuel dock. They took all the fuel that we and others had arranged for, but more fuel would be in "Manana." Two more "Mananas" and a small truck came ... we were allowed to take on 800 rather than 2,000 gallons. We could safely make Panama, but fuel costs would double.